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In the exhibition catalog, Van Weelden writes: “In the poorer districts, such as Mentougou, the tailors often ignored the measurements they were given. They preferred to work to the shape of a slightly roomier imaginary suit. Cutting the fabric is a risky operation, because if the cut is too skimpy, the tailor has to pay for the wasted fabric; if it is an expensive cloth this can ruin him. The interpreter contemptuously referred to such people as ‘unbrave tailors.’"