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Choi called upon his experience tailoring menswear to create a collection that employed quite hardy materials — double-bonded waterproof fabric, Italian cotton, rubber-mounted wool, and leather — in a feminine way. Leather details, like the sewn-in bag at right, arose from a collaboration with the fashion label Jas M.B. "The guy who runs it is a friend of a friend. I went to his factory in London, and it was like a candy shop, I could choose any leather I wanted," says Choi.