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Tanudiredja’s desk the day I visited his Antwerp studio. Most of the black beads are vintage French jet, which form the core of his collection. “Everything’s hand-made, and we produce everything here,” he says. Because of that, his necklaces typically sell for upwards of $5,000 in the U.S., “the price of a Birkin,” he marvels. Though for him, of course, it’s about quality, and creative ambition.