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Charles James: Vershueren recently discovered the work of the architecturally minded American couturier at a Vionnet exhibition in Paris. “They always say she was the one who pushed boundaries in the early 1900s,” she says. “That’s true, but the way James deconstructed garments was really avant-garde. I heard he once worked on one pair of sleeves for three months. He died poor in the end, so maybe it wasn’t so smart, but I like that he was that passionate.”