When the French winemaker Philippe Austruy purchased the Quinta da Corte vineyard in 2012, the 200-year-old property was in a state of utter neglect and disrepair. But by this past July, when I drove two hours from Porto to reach its perch in the hills of Portugal’s Douro Valley, it had been completely transformed — turned into a luxe country inn by the buzzy French architect Pierre Yovanovich. He rebuilt its main structures into a library, two sitting rooms, seven bedrooms, and a dining room, filling them all with an eclectic mix of antiques and custom furniture of his own design. There’s a brand new building that houses the actual winemaking, plus a tasting room and events space; most guests will leave Quinta da Corte with a bottle of port in their suitcase. I, on the other hand, yearned to adopt one of the ceramic vases, tables, and ashtrays that Yovanovich commissioned from local makers — the lack of an on-site ceramics shop being my only regret about the project. Take a tour of the rest of it below.

Photos by Jean-Francois Jaussaud